i hear scratchin or diggin in my bedroom but Never see any creepy crawlies…I have owned my 75yr old home now 9 yrs and yes im a clean freak ne who…2 days ago i seen a huge flying bug on my tv stand killed it and studied it…it was huge…lol so i wasn’t to concerned until i found the same bug flying throughout my house….killed and looked it up and this monster flying creepy crawler is a wood roach…eew my question is
A: is that the digging in my wall i hear cus everyone thinks i’ve lost it cus they don’t hear it but i have good ears its faint but i hear it
B: If possible then how do I get to them in my wall i read ur articles and i do have branches over my house but i keep my gutters clean…i do have air-conditioning but is secured the way u described drips are caught in a bucket and then water used in my hanging plants on the porch… so that leads to my last question C: why now…if this is infact a nested situation
It’s quite possible the sound you’re hearing in the wall is coming from an active roach population. They will readily invest hollow voids and when active (especially the large ones), you might be able to hear the sound of “pitter patter” as they move about their nest sites. This sound would be faint and really hard to notice unless you were right alongside an active nest.
As explained in our LARGE ROACH CONTROL ARTICLE, it’s best to use a dust for crawl spaces or wall voids. And in that article along with our article on GERMAN ROACHES, you’ll see the dust we suggest is the DRIONE. Fast acting and long lasting, it’s ideal for these areas.
I also suggest you do some treating outside. Although you’re collecting the water and recycling it, just having a container of it sitting around will increase the local humidity which in turn will lure roaches. This is especially true in the summer months when the air temps can get high. This is also the season when large roaches will forage inside the home so it’s if you don’t get them while they’re active just outside the house, more are likely to get inside. I suggest either spraying the entire area with the CYPERMETHRIN listed in our article or baiting the area with the MAXFORCE GRANULES. Use one or the other; both are effective with the spray being working much faster compared to the bait.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Large Roach Control: http://www.bugspray.com/article/largeroaches.html
German Roach Control: http://www.germanroaches.com/roach-control
Drione: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/dust/drione-dust
Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/liquid/viper-cypermethrin
Maxforce Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/bait/granule/maxforce-gran
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I just moved into my first apartment in May of this year and so far I have saw 10 roaches. So, I went out and bought Raid Max Bug Barrier. Today is my second day using the spray and it works on contact. One day on the way back to my apartment, I saw a roach. Then the next day I looked closer at where I saw the roach and I saw another one, they are coming from the door to the trash shoot. The trash shoot was closed about 2 weeks ago, so we have to take our trash to the dumpster now. So, I bought a Twin Draft Guard for my door. After I put it on I sprayed it with the Raid spray and sprayed the edges of the carpet, the bathroom, kitchen and living area. I notcied when I sprayed the kitchen counter edges and living area walls, a few roaches came out. I have not sprayed the whole apartment yet because I haven’t unpacked everything yet. The question I want to ask is, do I have a serious/bad problem with roaches?
You most definitely have a serious roach problem. Based on your message, it would seem they are active in many locations and will require extensive treatments. At this point I strongly suggest you refrain from spraying and read our ROACH CONTROL ARTICLE. In the article you’ll learn about the ROACH GEL and why it’s the best way to treat when dealing with a problem such as yours. A good baiting program will no doubt solve this problem a lot faster and efficiently but this can only be achieved if you stop spraying. This is mainly because the spray will contaminate the bait but also because the spray tends to “spread” or disperse the roaches. Leaving them as is and then deploying nothing but 1-2 baits will prove easier and more effective by a long shot.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Roach Control Article: http://www.germanroaches.com/roach-control
Roach Gel: http://www.germanroaches.com/roach-control#roach_bait
Magnum Gel: http://www.bugspraycart.com/bait/gel/maxforce-magnum-roach-gel-1-oz
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First off, I’d like to say that this site has been the most helpful site I’ve found so far. I only wish I could have found it sooner. Unfortunately, we have had roaches in our apartment for a while and have been already sprayed three times for it. We try to be as clean as humanly possible because of this issue and also because we have a dog. But we are fed up with the returning roaches. Yesterday, we had the pest control guy used gel instead and we are getting our landlord to caulk opens cracks. We have also laid bait traps in all the places we have seen the roaches. My questions are if I wanted to use the bait gel you mentioned, should I wait until the cracks are caulked? And how long does the gel take to start being effective. I know you mentioned in your article that it might a few days to see some dead roaches, but I’ve seen three live ones so far today since the gel and traps went down. Thank you so much for your help.
There is no need to wait when wanting to use ROACH GEL. Since roaches feed all the time, the sooner you have some out for them to find the sooner you’ll have acceptance and start seeing dead roaches. And again, as our ROACH CONTROL ARTICLE explains, it will take several days for roaches to die. Even then it doesn’t mean you’ll actually see any dead ones. Most will die hidden somewhere out of sight and since roaches are cannibalistic, many will be consumed by other roaches upon death. This process will leave nothing behind but more roach feces.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Roach Gel: http://www.bugspraycart.com/bait/gel/maxforce-magnum-roach-gel-1-oz
Roach Control: http://www.germanroaches.com/roach-control
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After reading your article on roach control, I’m planning to start gel baiting for German (and possibly Brown Banded) Roaches in my kitchen and bathroom cabinets. I think my infestation is light to moderate – I hardly see any droppings and haven’t caught more than 24 live roaches on any given night. I’m thinking about applying both Advion and Maxforce separately around the rooms, rotating them with each treatment. Do you think this is overkill and I should use a single product? Also, I found Gentrol Point Source Insect Growth Regulators in gel bait stations. Will this help break the reproduction cycle or will the Advion/Maxforce gels be effective enough? Many thanks and compliments for a great website on roach control!!
Thanks for the feedback on our site. No doubt we know roaches and which products work best when trying to treat local problems. And to get right to the point, when using any growth regulator with a bait things can get a bit dicey. I say this for many reasons. Though the use of growth regulators for many pests has a proven and tried track record, there are some variables that can effect the way it’s perceived once applied and part of a regular pest control program. This list is outside the scope of general information we make available on this site so I won’t bore you with all the details but I will elaborate a little. My quick answer is I would not recommend employing both options. Stick to using just the GEL or just a spray with GENTROL added or just the Gentrol by itself.
To elaborate on this a bit, here is a brief guide on what to expect if you were to use either of the three approaches independent of one another. The three approaches would be Growth Regulator, Spray (adulticide) and Bait (Gel, Stations, etc.). The “growth regulator only” treatments can solve problems. But I’ve seen where this can take many months and in some cases a year or more to complete. Remember, growth regulators don’t kill roaches. And though they prevent them from fully developing into reproducing roaches, it’s quite possible to have a never ending influx of new ones which may not make it to a reproductive age but will be visible to the resident. Suffice to say this is not an “acceptable” level of control by today’s standards. One can argue the product is working but if you (the resident) are still seeing roaches, so what? The goal of roach control is to make them go away for good and whether you’re seeing juveniles or adults they both incite a similar feeling and one most people are not comfortable feeling day to day. And remember, with the Gentrol preventing the roaches from growing up, many will be stalled in a stage where they won’t want to eat anything. That means even if they are close to a bait you’ve applied it can very well mean the growth regulator will prevent them from actively feeding on your placement. These are just some of the variables that make the use of a growth regulator dicey and unless the user is fully aware of what to expect when used, we know it’s best if the “newbie” to pest control stay with one or the other for the sake of making the process easier to accomplish and understand.
So in the big, long term scheme of things, the use of a growth regulator by itself can solve problems but it will no doubt be the slowest of the three approaches. Additionally, it can in effect “drag on” a situation which could otherwise be cleaned out quite quickly. And the way to get rid of the roaches quicker can be done with either the Gel or a good ADULTICIDE. Now when we look at these two approaches, we find the spray can be the most acute and fast acting. But we also know if the applicator is not skilled enough to make precise placements where it matters the most, the local roaches will continue to thrive. Add to this the problem of “interference” (interference is what I describe as obstacles that get in the way of spraying effectively like food, boxes, utensils, appliances, etc.) the overall effectiveness of the spray is continually diminished once someone sets out and uses some. So yes, spraying is no doubt the fastest way one can achieve good success when dealing with a roach infestation. But unless the structure is completely accessible such as one might expect when moving into a vacant apartment or home, it’s best to skip over this option and go with nothing but bait.
And as our ROACH CONTROL ARTICLE explains, baits are both easy to apply, do not require any major preparation to the areas where they’ll be used and when set out properly, can be used so discreetly no one will even know they’re present. Add to this the way it works (gels will actually lure roaches to it) and the fact that you don’t have to apply it with surgeon like accuracy, it’s easy to see the advantage of using this approach. As for the time it takes for a baiting program to work; it will be middle of the road compared to an adulticide only or a growth regulator only approach. But because it’s so easy to deploy and maintain, it’s the clear winner for most anyone in a residential situation where they need to do some roach control.
Sorry for the long winded answer but trust me, this is the scaled down version :-) The bottom line is using both ADVION and MAXFORCE alone will no doubt knock whatever roaches you have for a loop. In the end this is all you need so go with this approach and I’m sure you’ll be satisfied.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Maxforce Gel: http://www.bugspraycart.com/?s=maxforce+gel+magnum
Advion Gel: http://www.bugspraycart.com/bait/gel/advion-roach-gel
Gentrol: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/igr/gentrol-vial
Orthene WP: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/wettable-powder/orthene-wp-1-4-oz-pk
Roach Control Article: http://www.germanroaches.com/roach-control
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Hello. Your site is an excellent resource! I have a few questions for you. I live in an old section of baton rouge with large water oaks and pine trees. I spray myself with the bug spray from home depot. For roaches, I use a separate spray called Bengal. If I were to buy products from you, which do you recommend? Also, what about attics? Should I treat mine? I find a large dead roach at least twice a week in the summer. I am from the north and not used to these large roaches!!!!
Appreciate your help!
I recommend going with the ORTHENE we have listed in our LARGE ROACH CONTROL ARTICLE. It’s ideally suited for outdoor applications and if you spray the outside of the home every 1-2 months, you’ll be able to keep all bugs out. Nothing is stronger. The key is getting the roof line treated, up around the gutters, where these guys like to enter. It’s also important to treat the attic with either MAXFORCE GRANULES or DRIONE DUST.
Lastly, if you ever start to see more than just 1-2 inside, apply some GEL in any room with activity. These big roaches love the stuff and will quickly feed and die after you apply some where they’re foraging.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Orthene: http://www.bugspray.com/item/orthene_wp.html
Large Roach Article: http://www.bugspray.com/article/largeroaches.html
Maxforce Granules: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page278.html
Roach Gel: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page284.html
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I’m currently living with my aunts in Bakersfield, CA and we have possibly the worst roach problem ever! My aunts inherited the house about 9 yrs ago when my grandmother passed and we have tried everything, raid, black flag, roach motels, baits, even pinesole. Nothing even makes a dent in the roach population. They are everywhere!!! They’re in the bathrooms, the kitchen, and all three rooms!!! The house was built around 1939-1945 could that be the problem? I’m afraid for my aunts and my family’s health. Please help!
I can’t do the treatment for you since we’re on the other side of the country but I can tell you the problem can be controlled. As our ROACH CONTROL ARTICLE explains, it does take time and persistence. I suggest you quit doing everything and go to a strictly bait regime. If you set out ROACH GEL and AVERT GEL in every room where they’re active I’m sure you can control them. The key will be making sure you renew the applications every 2 weeks until you don’t see any activity. In most cases people who use bait in a bad situation simply don’t use enough. They’ll start out fine but in the end if you don’t keep putting out fresh bait, the roaches will find another food supply and continue to thrive. In the end the only way to knock them out completely will be vigilant baiting program making sure to get some applied everywhere the roaches are seen.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Roach Control Article: http://www.germanroaches.com/roach-control#roach_bait
Roach Gel: http://www.bugspray.com/item/magnum-roach-gel.html
Avert Gel: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page222.html
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I have 2 questions:
1. Is this gel something that has to be done once a month or every week, what the time frame for treatment again?
2. How to remove gel that is left on the wood surfaces for treatment and how long to leave gel?
The general rule when using roach gel is you should retreat as needed. Obviously this is “vague” to say the least. But here are some guidelines that should guide you along the procedure.
1) Make initial placements where you’ve seen active roaches. And keep track of every placement. Try to make these placements small. As explained in our ROACH CONTROL ARTICLE, gel placements should be small and discreet. The more you make the better. Many small placements, about the size of a grain of rice and spread out over a small area, will prove to be a lot more effective compared to one large placement. So for the initial treatment, make 5, 10, 20 or some other “round” amount of dabs where you’ve been seeing roaches. And keep these dabs close together, maybe one every foot or two, so you can look them over anytime to monitor acceptance. By making a number of placements like 5, 10 or 20 in one area it will be easier to monitor them when checking.
2) The next time you treat will depend on what you find following your initial treatments. For starters, if you find any roaches active where you treated, there is no need to do anything but let them be. In other words, let them feed and don’t kill any you see feeding! Contaminated roaches will effectively kill other roaches so let the product work it’s way into the nest. People will many times kill feeding roaches thinking they’re helping but actually you are delaying the process. Let them feed!
3) If you see roaches in areas where you DID NOT apply gel initially, be sure to add gel immediately. It’s not uncommon to miss a few locations with your initial treatment and it’s important all known active locations have roach gel available for the foraging population.
4) Inspect your placements daily to monitor how much is being consumed. I’ve seen where all the placements have been eaten in one day. I’ve also seen where only a small amount is eaten over a 2 week period and then no roaches are ever seen again. If you note fast acceptance and some of the “dabs” disappearing after a day or two, renew them once they’re gone. One thing about bait is that once it’s all eaten, you won’t have any left working for you so it’s important to keep a steady supply available. In bad cases where the roach infestation is high, they can eat quite a bit. In other words it can sometimes be necessary to rebait every 2-3 days for a few weeks in order to “feed” all the inhabitants.
5) Since adult roaches will feed right away, most all should feed and be dead within 7-14 days of your initial placement. In general, if you’re still seeing live activity after 14 days and what you’re seeing are adults, bait these areas again. You’ll do this because the fact that you’re seeing live adults means some still haven’t ingested or come in contact with the gel yet. Most of the time you won’t see any activity after 2 weeks but that doesn’t mean you’re done. As our article explains, roach eggs will hatch young baby roaches which won’t feed till they grow a bit. For this reason it’s important to keep the gel active for at least 2 months; preferably longer. So if you’re not seeing any activity after 2 weeks following your initial treatment, let it go a total of 4 weeks from the initial treatment and then retreat. This insures you’ll have fresh gel for the babies as they develop and start to feed like adults. Follow this pattern for at least two months but 3-4 months would be better to make sure you get them all since roach eggs can lay dormant for long periods of time. And in general, the gel will remain fresh for at least 2 weeks but usually up to 4 weeks. Once it’s a month old it tends to get too dry to quickly accepted so renew placements to make sure this doesn’t happen.
I believe number “5)” answered your question as to “how long to leave gel” out. As for clean up; all it takes is a damp paper towel or napkin to wipe up any gel misapplied or if you need to remove some after you’re sure the roaches are gone. Nothing fancy cleaning wise is needed; you only have to wipe it off but you can employ any standard cleaner if desired. But as our article explains, there is no need to make placements “out in the open” so really there should be little cleanup needed when treatments are done properly. Since roaches will easily find roach gel, making discreet placements where it’s hard to see any gel at all will work so there is no need for it to be out in the open. Placements can be on the bottom side of a cabinet, shelf or drawer. Gel works fine inside a cabinet, the back side of a door or behind an appliance. And as explained above, gel placements should be small so even if you were to have a direct “line of sight” to where you dabbed some, it would tough to see when the right amount has been applied.
Hope this helps answer your questions! Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Roach Control with Gel: http://www.germanroaches.com/roach-control#roach_spray
Roach Gel: http://www.germanroaches.com/roach-control#roach_bait
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Ive been fighting german roaches for about 6 months now i finally started to use raid. It seems to be working. What else can I use to keep the roaches under control and to keep them away?
If you read through our ROACH CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn spraying is one way to get control of this pest. But in most cases, it’s tough to get all areas sprayed so in the end, some will either be missed or learn to avoid the spray. For this reasons roaches tend to be a persistent pest once they get inside the average home.
For this reason we feel the best approach is to bait them with ROACH GEL. As our article explains, this approach takes advantage of that which all roaches are seeking more than anything: food. By luring them with a bait they cannot ignore, you’ll effectively get every one in your home as long as you make placements close to where you find activity. Roach gel is by far the easiest approach to use and maintain so if you’re looking to both prevent and get them under control, change over to this product and I’m sure you’ll get the long term results you desire.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Roach Control: http://www.germanroaches.com/roach-control#roach_bait
Roach Gel: http://www.bugspray.com/item/magnum-roach-gel.html
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I would like to know how much it would cost to exterminate cockroach infestation in a three bedroomed apartment. I would also like to know when a heat treatment is required in the extermination process.
To answer your last question first; if you follow our bait or spray method of treating, no heat treatments would be required. Let me add that heat treating for roach control is still a developing method of pest eradication. When compared to traditional methods, it pales in results and will generally take more time, cost and effort. No doubt heat treatments can be very effective in certain situations like those which are presented to business that either process or manufacture. But in the home the concept is difficult to employ. There are just so many places for roach eggs to hide which in the end mean the chances of reinfestation are high. To avoid this, we suggest going with either the spray or baiting methods outlined in our ROACH CONTROL ARTICLE.
As for the cost of these options? That can vary dramatically depending on the magnitude of the infestation. For example, if you have 25-50 roaches in your apartment, a 2 OZ TUBE of Roach Gel would be enough to take care of the problem. By making small placements in any room where you’ve seen roach activity, they’ll no doubt eat it and die. And since any roaches that eat the dead roaches will die too the impact from one tube of gel can be long lasting. But if you had 500-1000 roaches, you’d probably need a few tubes of gel to get rid of them all. So when it comes to gauging the cost of baiting for roaches, the problem largely hinges on the size of the area you need to treat and how many roaches are active in this area.
Alternatively, a thorough and complete spraying of just 1 gallon of mixed up ORTHENE can in theory kill 25 to as many as 25,000 roaches! But the key word here is “thorough”. The average apartment has so many places for roaches to hide it’s very difficult to get it all treated in one pass. The net result is that some roaches will survive the initial applications which means more Orthene will have to be applied. And over time this can add up so it’s more difficult to gauge the cost of this approach compared to baiting because when spraying, it can really vary depending on the degree to which the applicator is “skilled” at spraying. In our experience (almost 20 years of selling to the public), we’ve learned the baiting process is by far the easier of both methods for the average person to master. This is probably due to the fact that the roaches will come looking for the gel once it’s applied so you only have to get it close to where they live to be effective. Conversely roaches will tend to avoid spray so it can be a long and laborious task trying to get them all with this approach unless you’re able to deliver spray to every nook, cranny and hiding space where they seek protection. This is a tough goal to accomplish for sure.
In summary, most apartments will require 3-6 tubes of gel per year to both get a problem under control and keep the apartment that way. No doubt some can get by with much less gel being used and others will need a lot more due to the size of the local population. But in the end, the Gel is usually the best way to treat for roaches when it comes to handling the problem yourself.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Roach Control Article: http://www.germanroaches.com/roach-control
Roach Gel: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page12.html
Orthene WP: http://www.bugspray.com/item/orthene_wp.html
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Hi!
I just moved into an apartment and I have realized that my neighbors are disgusting. I need something that will kill everything, especially roaches. Management says they had someone come spray, but I want to spray my own place. What do you have? How much does it cost?
Kind Regards.
If you review our online ROACH CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn there are two approaches when dealing with roaches. No doubt spraying is the traditional approach that can work when done properly. But as our article explains, spraying can be time consuming, messy and a hassle. Especially if the roaches are confined to small areas like pantries and cabinets. For these and other reasons, you might want to consider the ROACH GEL discussed. It’s quite easy to deploy with very little preparation needed and we’ve found it works great. When used where roaches are seen or known to be active, the gel will usually be ingested within a day and you’ll start seeing results right away.
If you’d like to discuss these options on the phone, give us a call toll free at 1-800-877-7290 and one of our technical reps will go over options. Whether you’d like to spray or bait, we have what you need and can no doubt help with this problem.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Roach Control Article: http://www.germanroaches.com/roach-control
Roach Gel: http://www.germanroaches.com
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I am thinking about moving out of my home for a month or two……I want to know that if I leave my home with the windows open, water and gas turned off, cleaned very well, and with the windows open (It has been in the teens at night here), and unplugging everything for about a month or two will that get rid of the roaches. Will they die off?
No. If you read through our ROACH CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn they’re very tolerant of temperature extremes. In fact, most insects will slow up and go “dormant” as it gets cold. But this doesn’t kill them. Considered “cold blooded”, insects merely go into a state of suspended animation. This is when their molecular processes slow and require very little food or nutrients. It’s this state that enables them to endure long periods of time with no food, water or even what we consider to be “warm” temps. Now how long can they do this? No one really knows for sure but based on observations both afield and in the lab, it’s thought at least one species (the German Roach) can last a year if not longer in this state. If anything, the cold would actually help them endure the same environment longer because it will slow their internal processes.
I also think that freezing the home could present a host of other problems that would prove costly. My first concern would be freezing pipes. Water supply lines, toilets, hot water heaters – all of these would be at risk not to mention the prospect of unwanted entry. And what unwanted entry am I thinking of? The first would be people but don’t forget the local wildlife. Birds, squirrels, rats, mice just to name a few would no doubt wander inside. Some would come and go but I’m certain others would nest, chew and destroy things so I don’t think this approach would be a smart undertaking.
But if you are willing to leave the home for an extended period of time and do a thorough cleaning prior to leaving, I am certain you could achieve good success by baiting with ROACH GEL. However, I would also suggest you leave the home heated during this time. In fact, keeping it extra warm would get the roaches really active. And if there was no food inside except the Gel, they would no doubt eat it. This of course would kill them all off and I would expect that after 2 months of time, most if not all should be dead. Remember, roaches are cannibalistic and will readily eat their own kind. As roaches die from the Gel, others will feed on them which in turn will kill them too. So if you do in fact remove everything edible in the home, a complete treatment of Gel throughout the home would be one of the best ways to control the problem.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Roach Control Article: http://www.germanroaches.com/roach-control
Roach Gel: http://www.bugspray.com/item/magnum-roach-gel.html
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Please send me advise on how to really get rid of German roaches in private homes and offices.
If you read through our ROACH CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn the easiest and most effective approach is to bait them using the ROACH GEL we have featured throughout the article. It’s easy to use, odorless and very effective. Just make small placements every 2-3 feet in areas where roach activity is found or seen. The great thing about this approach is that the Gel takes full advantage of what the roaches want the most: food. And if you clean up the infested areas and then bait, the acceptance will be quick with immediate results.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Roach Control Article: http://www.germanroaches.com/roach-control
Roach Gel: http://www.bugspray.com/item/magnum-roach-gel.html
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I am in a really depressing, squalid situation, and I need some help.
Recently, I was forced to move out of my mother’s house due to a really bad family disagreement. I had almost no time to find a place and have had to move in with friends of mine. Said friends are *complete and total slobs* that do as little as they possibly can manage toward keeping the house clean. As a result, there is a horrific German cockroach infestation in the house. I was not aware of this before I moved in or I would never have come here!
I am, however, stuck, until I can save the money to find a better housing arrangement. The problem is… how can I avoid moving these little nasties with me when I actually do manage to move? I have a couch, some chairs and a few electronics that I am concerned about. What is the easiest way to de-roach my possessions so I don’t end up with the same problem elsewhere?
When moving from a roach infested situation there is always a risk some roaches will hitch a ride on either clothing or something else you pack. Since they love to eat the glue most any box uses to keep it together, the packaging you use could be what they find attractive. Additionally, they love to hide amongst the innards of common appliances, tools, books, paperwork and most anything you’ll be packing. To avoid this problem during the packing stage of your transition, you can do a two step preventive treatment that will usually handle any that slip by and migrate with you.
Since roaches are motivated by food and shelter, it’s paramount that you don’t transport anything you consider to be food. By not carrying any food in your packaging, you’ll be at least severely limiting if not eliminating the prime reason why roaches tend to move onto or with anything in the first place. But just in case any do find their way into your packaging, the best way to prevent them from living is to pack away at least one ROACH BAIT STATION with each box. The food attractant in these stations roaches love and will remain active up to three months. Placing them inside the boxes you pack will serve as a first defense taking full advantage of their lure for food. Once they feed, they’ll die within a couple of days and they won’t be able to propagate or get established either in the box or in your new home.
The second phase of preventing them is to “bait up” the new residence with fresh ROACH GEL (and the Bait Stations you find as you unpack). The Gel needs to be applied before you unpack and then the Bait Stations from your boxes should be applied to anything with a shelf or drawer like cabinets, pantries, closets, dressers, night tables, etc. Any unused Stations or left over units can be stored in the zip lock bag they came with and used in the future. So upon arrival or a day or two before if the location is available, you’ll need to place the gel throughout all the rooms making small “grain of rice” placements every 2-3 feet. The key locations will be where all your belongings will be placed since this will be the most likely place roaches will be active. And you need to do this whether the new location has roaches or not. This way when you unpack, any roaches that “hitched a ride” and escape will be instantly drawn to the gel in case they hadn’t fed upon the Roach Stations you should have used. Again, this process relies on the fact that roaches are motivated by food and that they like to eat daily. By offering them something in the boxes and the new residence, any that make it unseen will meet their demise as soon as they attempt to forage.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Roach Bait Stations: http://www.bugspray.com/item/157755.html
Roach Gel: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page12.html
Roach Control Article:
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I have read your articles on roaches. I inherited my mother’s house. It has been vacant for some time but is is relatively clean inside and we just finished cleaning up the yards. We had a good supply of Cockroaches which we have treated with rather good results with normal spray. However, when we took to the yard we found millions of what I have been told are German Roaches. They are everywhere. I want to eliminate them. The surrounding neighborhood has deterioated badly in the last few years. What was once a nice little family neighborhood is now rundown rental properties which are in need of repair or torn down. In fact the city removed one house next to our property and I think will be removing one accross the street. So what ever I use will need a good residual property. I have only seen one of the German Roaches in the house and believe it came in the front door with us but they are everwhere outside. Please help me by recommending the right chemical for indoor and outdoor use for both Cockroaches and Geman Roaches.
You stated that you read through our online GERMAN ROACH CONTROL ARTICLE which is where we list the products you’ll need to use for this problem. As detailed in the article, the ROACH GEL is definitely the way to go inside. It’s easy to apply, readily accepted by the roaches and will knock out any problem.
But using the Gel outside is tough if not impossible to use successfully due to a host of reasons. Combine this with the level of infestation you claim is present, I’d go with the CYPERMETHRIN instead. It can be applied to the turf, plants and siding of the home safely and will provide a quick knockdown, repellancy and in the end, control. I recommend treating the entire property at least once using about 1 finished gallon of product for every 1000 sq/ft of turf. Roaches will nest down in the ground under leaf litter, grass clippings and general debris. In southern climates they’ll live outside all year long and since mulch, compost piles, grass clippings, thatch and other organic debris will stay “warm” as it decomposes, there is usually a zone of heat created that will enable them to get through the harshest of winters remaining active all the while.
Applications of Cypermethrin to the turf will result in a quick kill of any insects living there. Spraying the side of the home will kill and repel any from the structure which in your case could be important. Based on what is happening around the neighborhood, it’s entirely likely more will be foraging onto your property on a regular basis so you’ll be prone to reinfestation. To keep this from happening, apply some COMPLETE GRANULES to the turf every 1-2 months at the rate of 20 lbs per 10,000 sq/ft. And if you intend on keeping any porch or patio lights on around the house, spray the outside house siding with the Cypermethrin during this same time interval to keep new ones off the building as well.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
German Roach Control: http://www.germanroaches.com/roach-control
Maxforce Roach Gel: http://www.bugspray.com/item/magnum-roach-gel.html
Cypermethrin: http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page14.html
Cyfluthrin Granules: http://www.bugspraycart.com/insecticide/granule/complete-insect-killer-granules
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I have them in my kitchen I have them in my bathroom and i have recently now seen them in my living room… They were not here a couple months ago and now all the sudden bam… I have roaches… I want them gone! How can this be accomplished. The fastest simplest way to get it done!!! Please Help. Thank you.
If you read through our ROACH CONTROL ARTICLE, you’ll learn the ROACH GEL is what we feel is the easiest and most effective way to treat a roach infestation. That’s because you only have to set it out where you see activity and in a week or two, most all will be gone. Clearly spraying would be faster but that would only prove true if you knew where each and every roach is hiding. The reality of using a spray is that you’ll miss some and in the end these few will reproduce and reinfest effectively thwarting your effort. For this reason we believe the gel is the best way to go.
Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:
Roach Control Article: http://www.germanroaches.com/roach-control
Roach Gel: http://www.bugspray.com/item/magnum-roach-gel.html
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