In general, it's not a good idea to spray countertops, stove tops or other appliances being used for cooking. In other words, the surfaces coming in contact with food should be left alone. In fact these areas are usually not too important to treat anyway since roaches will almost certainly be hiding down inside the appliance most of the time. To get good control, it's always best to go after them where they like to hide and this is where you need to focus your attention anyway.

That being said, one of the best ways to treat all these sensitive areas in the kitchen is the set out some ROACH GEL. This product can be applied in small amounts, about the size of a grain of rice per spot, and won't pose a hazard to people. It's a much safer option and it works great too as you can see in the roach feeding video. I recommend applying it throughout the kitchen and even in the rest of the house. Overall the baits work just as well if not better than spraying and in general they're much easier to use. But if you still want to do some spraying, use one of the products we have mentioned in our ROACH CONTROL ARTICLE. These are professional grade products that work well and when applied as directed won't pose a hazard to people or pets.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Roach Gel:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page12.html

Roach Control Article:  http://www.germanroaches.com/roach-control

First, don't panic. Start by reading our GERMAN ROACH CONTROL ARTICLE which will explain what you should expect during the process of cleaning out the infestation. As you'll learn, patience is a big part of the equation.

Second, German Roaches rarely thrive outside and only in the worse situations will they live on the exterior of buildings. This can happen when inside populations "spill over" to the exterior of a structure. But the reverse is not really true. In other words, it's not likely this species was living "in the woods" and then somehow decided to move into your home just because some land was "being cleared". We do know there are other species which thrive outside and it's possible you have one of them in your home. But regardless of the species, I suggest a combination of two products we carry that will no doubt knock out and prevent any future infestations.

On the inside, start by setting out our ROACH GEL in any room where you see activity. Foraging roaches will quickly find it, eat some and die. Over the course of 1-2 weeks, most all adults will be dead. If you have a lot of egg sacs around, expect to see young roaches hatch out at some point so don't fret when this happens. At first these young roaches won't eat anything so the gel won't affect them. But as they grow they'll eventually feed and when they do, complete control be reached.

On the outside, you need to spray with the CYPERMETHRIN on every side of the home. Don't forget to spray high since roaches will many times enter around gutters and downspouts. May species including Asian, Oriental and Wood roaches are commonly found in residential areas and these species will readily migrate into  homes. To make sure this doesn't happen keep a good protective spray barrier in place.

Lastly, do not spray in the home anymore as this will contaminate the gel bait and if you have been spraying, be sure to set the Gel out where you haven't put any liquid. Use tiny cutouts, about the size of a quarter and made from a paper plate or wax paper if you must make placements over areas you've sprayed. This will insure the gel isn't contaminated by the old chemical.

Here are direct links to the information and products mentioned above:

http://www.germanroaches.com/roach-control

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page12.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page14.html

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

We don't recommend any type of bomb or total release aerosol for roaches. Remember, cockroaches like to hide and are very good at sensing anything that poses a threat or danger. Aerosols released from a roach control "bomb" have never really worked well for them since they'll know it's coming and avoid the treatment by going deeper into the recesses of your appliances and wall voids. Will you see some dead roaches following your treatment? Yes. But since cockroaches can reproduce so quickly, your problem will be back in no time and in most cases it will be worse the next time around. Not only that, but total release aerosols project chemical all over everything making a "chemical mess". Food areas can be virtually contaminated and clean ups are tough to near impossible following the treatment. Lastly, the net result is that 99.9% of the material released ends up where it won't help and will essentially be wasted.

To get control of your problem, we suggest you apply some ROACH GEL listed in our GERMAN ROACH CONTROLARTICLE . It's easy to use and highly effective. You didn't mention what kind of roaches you have and this could be important. German roaches live inside and the bait alone will solve the problem. But if you have a roach species penetrating from outside, you'll need to do some spraying out there with the CYPERMETHRIN.

Here are direct links to the information and products mentioned above:

http://www.bugspray.com/item/magnum-roach-gel.html

http://www.germanroaches.com/roach-control

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page14.html

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

As explained in our ROACH CONTROL ARTICLE, there are many routes of entry cockroaches may use to gain access throughout a building which shares common ground like apartments and condo's. The holes under sinks for pipes are always a commonly used access point. But there are many more such areas like the pipe entries for bathtubs, water heaters, washing machines, dishwashers, refrigerators, wine coolers, bathroom sinks, etc. And this list isn't limited to only water pipes. Other points of entry include air ducts for heat and air conditioning, electric lines used to power all your appliances, light fixtures where they attach through the ceiling, electric power outlets on your walls and many others. To deal with the long list, there is a two prong approach that is works best. And as explained in our article, spraying products like "raid" isn't one of them!

You see, treating with a spray just doesn't work at "stopping" the problem. Remember, the problem is roaches have access to your unit. So as new roaches enter your unit, they'll avoid the areas sprayed with most any common aerosol spray because these products smell bad. Additionally, old treatments wear out when using standard "off the shelf" chemicals found at your local hardware store. These products simply aren't up to the standards of the professional products so if you insist on spraying anything for roaches, use our PHANTOM AEROSOL. It's far superior to raid because it lasts longer, is odorless, goes on dry when used making no mess and it's undetectable by the roaches. The other characteristic of Phantom is that it doesn't work quickly so insects don't even know it's been applied. They'll walk over treated areas unconcerned and they'll never realize they've been poisoned. And since it takes awhile to work, roaches will affect other roaches as they nest up during the day and come in contact with one another. So if you insist on using an aerosol or "spray", use the Phantom. But again, spraying isn't the best approach so I say don't use Raid or Phantom. Instead, lets stop them from ever getting into your unit!

So how do we do this you ask? Simple: employ some of the DRIONE DUST we have featured in our article. Roaches hate Drione and will avoid treated areas. By taking a little time and applying the Drione into all the wall entry locations you can find, they won't have access to your unit anymore. In fact, if you were able to treat all routes of entry with a quick 2-3 puffs of the Drione, they'd never get in. This might take 30-60 minutes to do throughout your entire unit but in many cases this is time well spent. I've used this approach for many insects but the most common it works on is cockroaches and silverfish. One of the great things about Drione is that it can last 12 months or more. This means if you do a thorough job, you can get away with as little as once a year treating for roaches!

Lastly, to make sure they're not nesting inside the unit, you should apply some bait anywhere you've seen them inside. As you can tell in the video featured on our ROACH GEL page, cockroaches love this stuff. If you place it out where roaches are seen, they'll eat it and die within a day or two. So my recommendation would be to "seal" the house by treating all routes of entry with the Drione. If you take some time to do this right, you won't get any new ones entering. Next, bait with the Gel inside anywhere you see them at night. This insures you don't have any nesting in your unit. If done correctly, I would expect all the roaches to be gone within 2 weeks for good. And notice I didn't say to use any spray; it's not that the spray won't kill them so don't misunderstand. The real problem with the spray is that it doesn't get them at their source so in the end, more will keep coming around unless you have an effective barrier in place to stop them.

Here are direct links to the information and products mentioned above:

http://www.germanroaches.com/roach-control

http://www.bugspray.com/item/phantom_aerosol.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page220.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page12.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page12.html

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

There are many types of bait available these days for roaches. Baiting is both easy and effective. The key is making placements where the roaches are active so they'll quickly find it and start to feed. Fortunately the latest formulations do a good job of combining active ingredients with attractants that most any roach cannot resist.

The best bait's we've seen work are the MAXFORCE GEL and the PT-300 AVERT GEL listed in our ROACH CONTROL ARTICLE. These two products combined will many times wipe out a roach population in as little as a week. Remember to make placements as explained in our article and I'm sure you'll get the kind of results you want.

Here are direct links to the products mentioned above:

http://www.germanroaches.com/german/best-roach-killer-bait.html

http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page222.html

http://www.germanroaches.com/roach-control

jonathan

www.bugspray.com

Roaches can and will live in a car if given the chance. Remember, there are many things that find their way into the cracks and crevices of car seats that can sustain a roach infestation. All it takes is one roach getting out of a box or bag being used to transport something you bought at a local store. This migrating roach will seek a safe hiding place and then, during the night, forage and feed on all the tiny crumbs and food items that can be found in most any car. The good news is that doing roach control in a car is pretty easy.

Forget using any type of aerosol or spray. The confined area makes such application both hazardous and unwarranted. Go with roach bait. Use some MAXFORCE GEL we talk about in our ROACH CONTROL ARTICLE. Roaches love this stuff. Small placements can be made throughout the cab of the vehicle in discreet locations that don't have to be visible. The roaches will find it and once they feed will meet their demise. It will probably take2-3 treatments to knock them out completely. Be sure and keep the bait fresh by adding some weekly till they're all dead and gone. Since it takes 3-4 weeks for all the egg sacs to hatch, these young roaches won't be feeding for some time. In general, it will take 20-40 days after the initial application for them to eat any. But if you keep applying more gel, there will be some waiting for them when they finally do emerge.

Here are direct links to the information and products listed above:

Maxforce Gel:  http://www.bugspray.com/catalog/products/page12.html

Roach Control Article:  http://www.germanroaches.com/roach-control